The Parallax Brief


Unrepentant Subjectivity on Economics, Politics, Defence, Foreign Policy, and Russia

Can a Moscow Steak House Cut the Mustard in London?

Moscow is not quite what you’d call a garden epicurean delights. Prices are tear jerking and choice is limited; restaurants are mostly either pitiably retarded or risibly pretentious, and value is rare at both ends of the spectrum. Food is a favourite grumble for us chronically peevish expats, but one restaurant which manages to garner virtually universal approval is Goodman, a chain of steak houses.

A steak is like a tuxedo: indivisibly simple, timeless, and unsurpassable, yet fucked up with an incomprehensible regularity. Goodman, however, in a sea of post-communist mediocrity and expense, cooks the best and simplest of foods consistently well and at a fair price.

And now, after a fifteen-year rip tide of western brand colonization of Russia, Goodman leading the ebb back and is opening a restaurant in London.

Below is a review by AA Gill – in my view, the finest non-fiction writer in the world. A bit off my usual beat, but I assume there must be someone out there who likes current affairs, politics, economics, steak and the English language. If you fall into either of the last two categories, Gill’s ode to steak is essential reading.

Goodman Review, Steak soliloquy, AA Gill

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